'Tis the season for friends, family & holiday feasts.

Talkin’ Turkey
If you decide to feed your pet a little nibble of turkey, make sure it’s boneless and well-cooked. Don't offer her raw or undercooked turkey, which may contain salmonella bacteria.

Too Much of a Good Thing
A few small boneless pieces of cooked turkey, a taste of mashed potato or even a lick of pumpkin pie shouldn’t pose a problem. However, don't allow your pets to overindulge, as they could wind up with a case of stomach upset, diarrhea or even worse—an inflammatory condition of the pancreas known as pancreatitis..

A Feast Fit for a Kong
While the humans are chowing down, give your cat and dog their own little feast. Offer them chew bones. Or put dribbles of gravy—inside a Kong toy. They’ll be happily occupied for awhile, working hard to extract their dinner from the toy.

 

Pumpkin - Peanut Butter Dog Biscuits            
2 1/2 cups of whole wheat flour
1/4 cup peanut butter
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon                                   
1 cup canned pumpkin
1/2 teaspoon salt (optional)                                                                           

Directions:
1.) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degree C)
2.) In your mixing bowl, mix together all ingredients and mix until the dough holds together in a ball and all of the flour  is combined. The dough shouldn't be too sticky.
3.) Roll the dough on a floured surface 1/2 inch thick. These biscuits do not rise so you don't want to roll too thin. Use your favorite cookie cutter to cut the biscuits into shapes or cut with a butter knife into squares. Place on baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Since the biscuits do not rise you can place them close together on the baking sheet.
4.) Bake in preheated oven until hard - for about 40 minutes. Makes about 25 bones that are approximately 2 inches.

 

Tip: Every dog is different, so please check with your vet to see if this recipe is suitable for your pet

Trivia Time

1. What was the name of Rudolph's dogsled driving friend?

2. In Frosty the Snowman, who brought Frosty back to life?

3. Who lost $8,000 in It's a Wonderful Life?

4. Counting Rudolph, how many reindeer are there?

5. "Dry Ice"  is not ice, but actually a compressed form of what gas?

6. What animal is capable of drinking 30 gallons of water in 10 minutes?

7. What is the only animal that can't jump?

8. Name the first balloon in the 1927 Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade?

9. What do you call the skin hanging from a turkey's neck?

 

ǝlʇʇɐʍ 'ʇɐɔ ǝɥʇ xılǝɟ ' 'ʇuɐɥdǝlǝ 'lǝɯɐɔ 'ǝpıxoıp uoqɹɐɔ 'ǝuıu 'ʎllıq ǝlɔun 'ɐʇuɐs 'snılǝuɹoɔ uoʞnʎ

Canine Parvovirus: Easily Preventable!

As we head into the fall and cooler months of the year, we notice more frequent cases of parvovirus affecting unvaccinated puppies.  This disease is easily preventable, and can very quickly become deadly in small puppies. 

Parvovirus is a small virus that has been around since the 1970's and is species-specific--that is, it will only affect the species it was originally "designed" for.  (This also means you cannot give parvo to your dog or catch it from your dog.)  Due to it's small size and structure, the Parvo virus is VERY stable in the environment and can survive for up to 7 years in soil and unwashed soft surfaces.  This means Parvo can be found almost anywhere, but especially in areas where other dogs frequently use the bathroom (dog parks, yards, common dog-walking areas).  Unvaccinated puppies and young dogs are extremely vulnerable to this diease, although we have rarely seen it in older unvaccinated dogs.

An area becomes contaminated with Parvo when an infected dog defecates or vomits in an area.  Unless the area is immediately disenfected with a dilute bleach solution, it can remain contaminated for up to 7 years.  An unvaccinated dog catches Parvo by encountering either feces or vomit from an infected dog, or from coming in contact with a contaminated area.  The tricky part is, not all dogs will act sick even if they've been infected, so these dogs (called "shedders") can contaminate very large areas since their owners do not know to keep them confined. 

After an unvaccinated puppy is exposed to the virus, it takes 3 to 7 days for the puppy to show signs of the disease.  Classic signs of Parvo include vomiting, lethargy, dehydration and diarrhea.  The virus works by destroying the lining of the intestines, so that diarrhea occurs and bacteria can easily enter the bloodstream.  Since the puppy cannot keep water down, he will quickly dehydrate and can die within 2-3 days if no medical attention is sought. Puppies can also die from septicemia, which is a condition that results when large amounts of bacteria gain entrance to the bloodstream through the intestines. 

Diagnosis of Parvo virus is made with a combination of history (no vaccines or inapproprate vaccination), clinical signs, and/or a quick bedside test that is performed using a rectal swab.  The test results are returned within 10-15 minutes for a very fast diagnosis.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR YOU TO SEEK IMMEDIATE VETERINARY CARE FOR A PUPPY YOU SUSPECT MAY HAVE PARVOVIRUS.  Hospitalized veterinary care is aimed at supporting the puppy and addressing the symptoms while the puppy's immune system fights off the virus.  At Idaho Veterinary Hospital, we recently started using an anti-viral treatment within the first 48 hours of signs of Parvo, and have found it decreases hospital stays and increases survival rates.  Other important components of treatment include IV fluid therapy, antibiotics, anti-nausea medications, frequent monitoring, pain control and warmth.  It is important to note that there is no cure for Parvo, and hospitalization gives your puppy the best chance of surviving this deadly disease.

Survival rate for hospitalized puppies can easily exceed 80%, especially if disease is caught early.  Home care for Parvo is not recommended, but is sometimes the only option.  Home care includes fluids given under the skin, anti-nausea medications and antibiotics.  Survival rates for home care are signficantly less, around 40-50%.

A correct vaccination schedule for puppies is below.  It is important that young puppies receive ALL 3 vaccines and that they are kept isolated from other unvaccinated dogs and from areas where other puppies/dogs use the bathroom.

• 8 weeks of age:  1st Parvo vaccination
• 12 weeks of age: 2nd Parvo vaccination
• 16 weeks of age: 3rd and final Parvo vaccination, Rabies vaccine often given at this appointment as well

The puppy is now considered to have it's entire series of puppy vaccinations, and will not need additional vaccines for Parvo and Rabies until a year after the final vaccine.  It is extremely important that all puppies receive this series.  Oftentimes, we see puppies that come from unknown sources or are sold "with all their vaccines."  Unless the seller can provide proof of the full series of vaccinations, it's best to assume the puppy has received inadequate vaccination and start a series all over again.

AAHA

Cats & Carriers: Friends not foes!

It is important to acclimate your cat to it's carrier before the day of their appointment to minimize the stress of the visit.  Carriers can provide a sense of security in a new and scary place.  It is extremely important for the health of your cat to have regularly-scheduled, low-stress visits to a veterinarian.  Beginning to acclimate your cat to its carrier 2-3 weeks before his or her scheduled visit will make both of you feel much better about the visit to your veterinarian.

Below are several steps to take to make your cat's visit to your veterinarian as happy and stress-free as possible!

1. Selecting the best carrier for your cat
·         The carrier needs to be stable--some cats prefer soft but most prefer hard-case carriers
·         Easy to carry and handle
·         It should have an opening at the top and front (see carrier pictured above)
·         The top should be easily removable
·         The carrier should be the right size--big enough for your cat, but small enough to handle easily

2. Choosing the best area to familiarilize your cat with his carrier
·         The area should be convenient for you and your cat
·         Some cats prefer elevated resting areas, but ensure the carrier is secure
·         Choose places your cat currently prefers to rest

3. How to make your carrier cat-friendly
·         Leave the door open to allow your cat to explore
·         Place a favorite soft blanket or a soft piece of clothing from your cat's favorite person inside the carrier
·         Use a feline pheromone spray, such as Feliway, at least 15-30 minutes prior to introducing it to your cat
·         Cats like warmth--place the carrier in a warm spot or a sunbeam

4. Feed and play with your cat in and around the carrier
·         Offer special and delicious meals inside the carrier (but do not place your cat's only source of food in the carrier--this can lead to excessive stress)
·         Play with toys, especially "fishing pole" type toys, in and around the carrier
·         Allow your cat to "catch" the toy inside the carrier

5. Getting your cat used to transporting in the carrier
·         Some cats prefer to see out during transport, although most prefer to have the carrier covered
·         Use a blanket or a towel with a familiar scent to cover the carrier
·         Secure your cat's carrier in the backseat with a seatbelt
·         Begin by placing your cat in the car and starting the engine for a few minutes at a time
·         After your cat tolerates this well, drive around the block to get him used to a moving vehicle
·         Slowly increase the distance and time your cat spends in a moving vehicle

An informational video of this process can be viewed at http://www.catalystcouncil.org/.  Additonal informational resources about the importance of regularly scheduled kitty wellness exams is available at http://www.catvet.com/ and http://www.healthycatsforlife.com/. We hope that by taking these steps, your furry feline friend will soon look forward to going to see the veteriarian!

Written by Dr. Elly Burnett

Heartworm Season & Parasite Protection for your pets

Heartworm is a nasty parasite transmitted by mosquitoes. Luckily, we live in an environment that allows us freedom from such pest during our cold winters, However, in those warm spring and summer months we need to understand, as pet owners, that Heartworm is a genuine threat to our friend's health. Heartworm disease is easily (and nearly 100% preventable), but not easily treated.

Heartworm Larvae live in the bloodstream and mosquitoes acquire them from affected dogs/casts while taking a "blood meal". They can then transmit them to unaffected dogs/cats when getting a blood meal from the new canine. Heartworm preventives can kill any Heartworm within the first four stages of its life. This is why Heartworm preventive is recommended every 30 days. Once Heartworm gets to the fifth stage it is much more difficult to eradicate.

Idaho Veterinary Hospital offers two different methods of heartworm preventive:

Heartgard: a chew which treats Heartworm, roundworm, and hookworm.
Revolution: a topical treatment that protects from Heartworm, ticks, and fleas.

We do stock some Heartworm preventive in the hospital, but it gets very hard to keep up with the demand in the Spring. However, our online store is another convenient option. If you're not yet signed up for our ProxyRX site, please give our lovely receptionist a call and they can assist you with registration.

Anesthesia-free dentals: Not Recommended

Your pets' dental health is important not only for long-term comfort of the mouth. Dental disease can also affect other areas of the body as well.  Heart disease has long been linked to poor dental health in pets.  This occurs because when a pets teeth become severely diseased, every time the pet chews or eats, the overgrowth of bacteria in the mouth gain entry to the bloodstream.  This is because a diseased mouth has unhealthy gums that lack the normal barriers for bacteria.  Every chew and bite cause a bacterial "shower" to enter the bloodstream.  From there, the bacteria must be eliminated by the immune system, but the rogue bacteria can gain entry to places in the body such as the lining of the heart or heart valves.  Regular brushing can help prolong the length of time between a full periodontal treatment, but in most cases, it will not eliminate the need for periodontal treatments in a pets life.

Good kitty!



A trend for Anesthesia-free pet dental cleanings (AFD) is sweeping across the nation.  This trend arose out of a desire for a "safer" alternative for current dental treatments that require general anesthesia, since anesthesia is often the most risky aspect of any procedure.  Problems arise, however, as owners perceive the quality of an anesthesia-free dental to be equal to that of a full anesthetic periodontal treatment.  This is simply not the case.

Anesthesia-free dentals (AFD) use sedatives instead of general anesthesia to relax the patient without completely putting them under.  The portion of the tooth that can be seen by a pet owner is cleaned, scaled and polished and the pet is sent home with a visually attractive set of teeth.  Oftentimes, if a pet cannot be effectively controlled with sedatives, either extra sedatives are used or "bruticaine" is enforced--physical restraint in order to control the patient long enough to clean the surface of the teeth.  Please note that the only portion of the tooth is the tooth seen above the gum line, and most frequently, only the outside of the tooth that the owner can see is cleaned.  Sub-gingival (or portions of the tooth that lie below the gum line) are completely neglected and set the pet up for having severe dental disease that is completely hidden from the owner.  Proper cleaning of the teeth involves the use of very sharp instruments--patients who are not anesthetized are still able to move freely and can react to the discomfort created by these instruments and can be severely hurt.  Other essential tools like dental probes are not used in these cosmetic procedures, and using probes to check for hidden pockets of infection and disease in healthy-appearing teeth is important for long-term pet health.

There is another type of dental cleaning that is frequently performed by groomers is a quick surface scaling of tartar.  We frequently see pets that have had this procedure performed, and owners; often have a misunderstanding about the difference between this quick, cosmetic cleaning and a deep periodontal treatment.  This quick scaling is often done by untrained staff, and the scratches and defects it creates in the teeth can set the pet up for a faster and more serious accumulation of tartar in the future.  A proper scaling is always followed by polishing to eliminate this risk.

A pet before and after a proper periodontal treatment.  You can see the airway tube inside the pets mouth.

A true periodontal treatment performed by your veterinarian not only cleans the visible surfaces of the teeth, but involves probing the sub-gingival parts of the teeth for hidden dental disease.  Although anesthesia is always a risk with any procedure, pet anesthetic protocols are much safer than they used to be.  Pre-anesthetic bloodwork can ensure there is no hidden diseases of the pet to minimize complications.  All vitals are monitored while your pet is anesthetized, including blood pressure, oxygenation, EKG, heart rate and respiration rate.  A dedicated pet nurse is assigned to your pet and will record all parameters for the entire length of your pets anesthetic procedure.  An intravenous catheter is placed and fluids administered, ensuring consistent blood pressures and easy access should an emergency occur.  Passing a tube to protect the airway not only guarantees a safer way of anesthesia for your pet, but also ensures the plaque removed from the teeth is not inhaled by your pet.  The teeth are thoroughly scaled using an ultrasonic scaler followed by a detailed and thorough oral inspection by your veterinarian.  At that time, the decision is made using a dental probe and x-rays whether all the teeth are healthy or not.  Once the teeth have been pronounced healthy, all four surfaces of every tooth are polished using a high speed polishing head.  A fluoride treatment is then applied to your pets teeth to help seal and protect the teeth between treatments.  If your pet has extensive work or extractions, they are sent home with pain medications to ensure their comfort.

Although anesthesia-free dental cleanings seem like a safer, more affordable route to take with your pets' dental care, in the long-run they can thoroughly compromise oral health.

Written by Dr. Elly Burnett

Meet Doofy Duck!

Doofus Duck is a six month old (very handsome) white duck who came to us in August after a wild animal jumped into owner Claudia's backyard and viciously attacked Doofus and his mate.  Unfortunately, his mate was killed instantly.  Doofus made it out of the attack with very severe wounds along his neck--the wild animal had attempted to decapitate Doofus.

Doofus had skin, tissue and feathers missing along the entire length of his neck and was in a lot of pain.  Since he was so painful, Dr. Burnett administered pain medications and lightly anesthetized Doofus to assess his injuries and clean and dress his wounds.  After some intensive cleaning, a thick coat of a special antibiotic ointment was placed on his wounds and a light bandage was wrapped around the area.  Dr. Burnett told Claudia his injuries were so severe she wasn't sure if he would survive.  Claudia loved Doofus so much she was willing to do what was necessary to save her sweet duck.  They made plans to bring Doofus in a few days later to change his bandage and remove any more dead tissue from his wounds.

In only a few days, Doofus's wounds had started to heal remarkably well!  Claudia told us he was eating fairly well and seemed much more comfortable at home.  The following pictures are a progression of Doofus's wounds.  Beware: The following pictures are graphic!

 Doofus 3 days after we first saw him.  Although this looks very bad, it is actually much better than it looked when he first saw us! His head is to the right and his body is the the left. The pink skin is healing tissue and the black/green tissue is dead or dying skin. (The yellow in his feathers on the left is from the ointment we used)

 Doofus with a new bandage!  His usually white feathers have some "melting" ointment sticking them together on his shoulders.

 Doofy duck 10 days after his firs appointment! The pink is new tissue and the white is ointment.  Already looking much better!

 Doofus three weeks after his first visit! By this time, we didn't need to lightly anesthetize Doofus because he was so much less painful and everything was healing so well! He's already starting to get feather regrowth at the bottom and top of his wound!

Doofus on his last visit to us only a month after his first! Claudia thought his feathers would never grow back and that he'd have a "naked" neck for the rest of his life! Doofus proved all of us wrong by healing better than our greatest expectations!

After only one month, with good care from owner Claudia and both Dr. Burnett and Dr. Caldwell, Doofus was able to make a full recovery and grew back all his feathers!  Claudia reports that Doofus loves laying in her back yard--when he wants attention he lays flat out and rests his chin on the ground to wait for scratches!

Recently, we received a phone call from Claudia.  She told us that Doofus has been laying eggs!!  After all this time, we found out that Doofus is a female!

Written by Dr. Elly Burnett